Making a sloper is slow and arduous, so I decided to draft something easy. Plus I need more skirts. More solid colored skirts, really.
A few days after the end of the quarter, I ventured back into Patternmaking for Fashion Design (5th Edition) to draft up a dirndl with basic lapped waistband. Yes, I know a dirndl is just a gathered rectangle skirt, but did you know that for a better fit, you should drop the waistline 1/4" at CB and gradually taper back to the correct side seam length? Sounds counter intuitive, doesn't it!? Why would you want to shorted the back piece at the CB? There's a BOOTY back there! Well, I learned that the reason for doing so is that your waistline actually does curve down a bit at the small of your back. When you drape on a form, or draft patterns, you really start to notice these things. Unless you have an extra ample booty, drop that waistline seam down 1/4" and the skirt will hang nicely and evenly all the way around the hemline!
This is how I drafted my skirt (per Mrs. Armstrong's instructions):
1) Measure waistline (make sure it is comfortable and there is a bit of ease!) Let's say 26" (I realized that my waist is bigger now, sad!).
2) I chose a 2.5 to 1 gathering ratio so the total skirt width is 65". At the time I was thinking about adding inseam pockets, but got too lazy. (I wish I added them!) I still opted for side seams though. So I took 65" and divided it in 2. The front panel is 32.5" and the back panels will be 16.25" each. I wanted the zipper at center back. Because of such a large ratio, I ended up fudging the numbers slightly and went with 32" and 16". I also just assumed 1/2" seam allowance and did not add extra. What's the point, right?
3) The length I chose was 20": 1/2" SA for the waistline, and a 3" hem.
4) The waistband length or circumference is your waist measurement (26") plus 1" extension, plus 1/2" SA on either side. A total length of 28". For the width, I chose 1.5" finished. To do that, my width was 3" (1.5" x 2) plus 1/2" SA on the top and bottom for a total width of 4".
That's it! Those are your pieces. Oh, and like I mentioned before, shave off that 1/4" at the CB of both back panels and gradually taper back to the 20" length at the SS.
More pictures of the dirndl:
I love the trim! I was going to add a dainty crocheted lace trim, but my mom found this one instead. I think its perfect!
|The hem... I sewed a 3" invisible hem and then sewed the trim to the bottom.|
|The waistband I topstitched the waistband down from the right side and caught the trim inside just above the gathers.|
And this cute black and white vintage button finishes it off!
I really, really do recommend this book! Well worth the price.
Finally, thanks to Amanda, Jeanettec, Fabiana, Christina, Tiffany Reagan, and Becca! I know Tiffany Reagan and Becca both have blogs too, but I'm having trouble finding them. Both are awesome contributors on Sew Retro!