Monday, November 22, 2010

Hawaiian Shirt Help!

Can anyone help me with this problem?

I hate the back/underarm shirt wrinkle!  I started working on Victoria Jones pattern 220 for my Dad's Christmas present:

I made a muslin and its a little small.  That is easily fixed, but I hate the back arm wrinkle.  The picture above is actually from a RTW shirt my dad owns.  The muslin did the same thing.  I read somewhere that it is because the armsyce is set in too low because of the drop shoulder.  

What do I do to fix this? Is it even necessary? My dad has a rounded back too. Could this be amplifying the problem?  How would I fix this in a shirt with a back yoke?

 I realized that I see this men's shirt wrinkle everywhere, on mostly hawaiian style shirts.  My Sketching I instructor has the same problem :)  

Any thought/comments would be most appreciated.  I need to get this thing made before Christmas.  He's been waiting for this shirt since our trip to Maui in July when we bought this fabric:

The top fabric.

Thanks Blog Readers!

1 comment:

  1. I can't tell from the photos, but is it possible that your model has sloping shoulders? Pinch out some fabric on the shoulder seam...see if that helps. You can then alter the slope of the shoulder on your pattern, but will also have to alter the armscye (because if you take fabric out at the shoulder seam, you will be making the armscye smaller, so you will have to recut it lower). If you take a photo directly on from the back it will be easier to see if his shoulders slope.

    Love that fabric, btw!